Anatomy of Ejay Rin’s Pork Ramen: A Restaurant Review Post-Script

28
Sep
0

A recent popular press review of Ejay Rin failed to include the signature pork ramen bowl as part of their critical process. I found it somewhat analogous to reviewing a pizza restaurant without trying the pizza.

The purpose of this short “review” then is to countervail that oversight by spotlighting said dish, what I believe has quickly become one of the very best meals under $8 in Richmond.

Apologies for blurry camera phone picture but you should get the point...

Apologies for blurry camera phone picture but you should get the point...

  • Pork Times Two (1): Shredded pork barbecue AND a really nice cut of cured pork belly. My take on Ejay Rin in general is that it’s a bbq restaurant in Asian clothing.
  • Fish Cakes (2): Nothing fancy here but is a nod to the Japanese tradition. Bonus protein + soup enhancer.
  • Poached Egg (3): With Bill Foster (Frog and the Redneck, Acacia) architecting, it’s no surprise that this sous-vide egg is always poached perfectly. Immediate Pavlovian reaction to destroy it into the soup.
  • Pickled Vegetables (4): In-house pickled radish (punk pink), turnip chunk, cucumbers, and a sheet of Nori seaweed nicely balances the aesthetics of the dish.
  • Stock (5): Porky, slurry, briny, and slow cooked in the old country way for max umami. No instant MSG packet here. The glue of this dish.
  • Noodles (6): Prepping homemade ramen noodles daily takes a certain level of audacity. Not even the fabled David Chang or the rest of the East Village ramen vanguard are crazy enough to do that as they all outsource. Whether it’s Italian or Japanese, homemade noodles tend to usually have a luxury “surcharge” (box is so much easier and “familiar”) leading to the last bullet point…
  • Price: $8 (lunch). At this price point, the amount of creativity, preparation, complexity, and ingredients going into this dish really, really over-delivers from a value perspective. That’s the bottom line and, generally, the hidden genius and integrity of Andy Howell projects.
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Broad Appetit 2011: Part IV A New Hope

4
Jun
0

So, I’m a huge unabashed Broad Appetit fan. Sure, it has its flaws (three dollars turns into thirty fast, sliderphilia over-fixation, no Vasaio, where’s Ejay and Rin? and though I love and prefer hometown Duke’s, I don’t get free mayonnaise samples in 90 degree heat) but that’s being nitpicky.

The fifty or so participants represent a good cross-sample of our town’s restaurant scene, and it’s really interesting to see the chefs get competitive and creative with their offerings.  Make no mistake, everyone wants to win this (except for that random funnel cake guy).

Mobile Guide
Bookmark this link on your phone: http://tinyurl.com/broada2011.  It’s a mobile-friendly page with all the information you’ll need for this year’s event including a sortable table with booth numbers, restaurants, and menus.

Predictions
As an oddsmaker, you have to give the edge every year to the teams with home field advantage/access to real kitchens: Bistro 27 and Comfort are my standing picks.

Also, hopefully, more restaurants follow Acacia’s “kill them with a superior ingredient” strategy that netted them top prize last year (soft shell crabs).  I think Acacia does it right in that they see Broad Appetit as a “loss-leader” opportunity to showcase their restaurant to potential new customers (versus short term quick event cash).  Already, seeing Sensi is offering a crab ravioli in lobster sauce (but will it hold under heat lamps). For Three Bucks?!  Every year, Sensi is game and in the mix. They might be due.

At the end of the day, please support all these participating restaurants post-event as well.   Many are closing their shop for the day to support a great cause (Central Virginia Food Bank)!

Who’s In (new restaurants debuting)

  • Amour Wine Bistro
  • Boka Taco
  • Bonvenu
  • The Camel
  • Culinard
  • Emilios Tapas y Paella
  • Ettamae’s Café
  • Eurasia
  • The Franklin Inn
  • F.W. Sullivan’s Fan Bar and Grille
  • Goatocado
  • Great Seasons Bistro
  • Lady Nawlins
  • Lehja
  • M Bistro & Wine Bar
  • Martins Food Stores
  • Shyndigz
  • Stratford University
  • White Anchovie?? (listed in Press Release but not on final map.  Too bad, Manley is a force.)

Who’s Out (particpated last year, not this year)

  • Bistro 104
  • Bookbinders
  • Bull and Bear
  • Café Gutenberg
  • Café Rustica
  • Carena’s Jamaican Grille
  • Caribbean Mingles
  • Chez Foushee
  • Cous Cous
  • The Grapevine
  • Positive Vibe Café
  • Q Barbeque
  • Seafire Grill
  • Stronghill
  • The Urban Farmhouse

2010 Year in Review…The Big Memes and Stories

23
Dec
0

December 2010

November 2010

October 2010

September 2010

August 2010

July 2010

June 2010

May 2010

April 2010

March 2010

February 2010

January 2010

Byrd Theatre Fundraiser: “Rock ’N’ Roll Hotel” Premiere! (Aug 30)

14
Aug
0

This is gonna be totally awesome:

Press Release:
The Best Worst Movie You’ve Never Seen!

Shortly after the filming of the classic “My Dinner With Andre” at the Jefferson Hotel, another Hollywood crew took over the closed landmark in 1982 to make a very different movie.

What happened next became the stuff of urban legend. And until now — 28 years later — only a handful of people have seen the results of an exuberant yet turbulent production: a music-filled, campy film called “Rock ’N’ Roll Hotel.”

rocknrollhotelfacebookicon_webThe movie, a sort of low-budget, ’80s-style cross between “Rocky Horror Picture Show” and “Grease,” features Judd Nelson in his big-screen debut, and stars Rachel Sweet, Colin Quinn and a host of Richmond extras and crew members.

Style contributor Dale Brumfield spent months researching the story of the film’s production, to be published as a cover story in Style Weekly on Aug. 18. During this process a co-producer unearthed a VHS copy of “Rock ’N’ Roll Hotel,” buried deep in the closet of an architectural firm in Culver City, Calif.

Style has partnered with Studio Center Total Production to help enhance movie quality and acquired the rights to premiere the film in a special one-time showing to benefit the Byrd Theatre (through the Byrd Theatre Foundation) on Monday, Aug. 30, at 8 p.m.

A grass-roots volunteer force, led by Robey Martin, Chad Brown and Brandon Laroussini of the Byrd Theatre (on Twitter @thebyrdrva), is selling tickets to the Richmond premiere (donation $10 in advance, $15 at the door). A special VIP package includes a 6:30 p.m. pre-reception at the Jefferson with the movie’s original screenwriter, along with other perks (donation $40 in advance, $45 at the door).

The Jefferson Hotel and To the Bottom and Back Bus are serving as co-sponsors.

Ticket information is available at styleweekly.com/thebyrd | Facebook | Twitter

BUY TICKETS NOW

rocknrollhoteleventbrite_web

Filed under: Richmond

Broad Appetit Mobile

6
Jun
0

Check out our handy dandy Mobile Friendly Broad Appétit Guide. Bookmark it on your phone and use as a reference tool while you’re there: menus of all the contestants, map locations, and event schedules.  Also, links to the restaurant participants and various media preview guides.

Looking forward to sampling as many dishes as I can.  The beauty of this event is that no rules apply. You can alternate between entrees and desserts. Go with either a pre-meditated or stream of appetite strategy (I go hybrid).  Value shoppers looking to stretch their three Washingtons might opt for a quantity or quality approach (Last year, Sensi’s lobster risotto was the most bang for your buck meal.  This year, Acacia is offering a softshell crab sandwich and Olio, a truffles and crab pasta!).

Remember, the earlier, the better.  If a particular booth is slinging gastronomic goodness, word travels fast, and they just might run out. Happens ever year.

In terms of an early line for event winner, my inner-bookmaker likes the odds of the talented restaurants that have home-field advantage (27, Comfort, Foushee, Rustica, Tarrant’s).

Canned Plum Tomatoes

4
Feb
0

Trendsetter I’m better my rhymes are good. I got a gold name plate that says I wish you would. LL Cool J

Was joking with one of the pizza day participants the other day that we started this whole Richmond Neapolitan Pizzeria trend. ;) For me, the most important part of that experience was the discovery of Italian canned plum tomatoes.  Once you go this route for pizza or spaghetti sauce, it is very difficult to go back to the jar.  My mission the last couple of months has been to find the perfect brand of canned tomato.  For now, here are my findings of what brands are out there in Richmond:

Richmond, VA Italian Whole Peeled Plum Canned Tomatoes Guide

Do you have a favorite brand? Please leave a comment…

Note: This is Part 2 of my special obscure food series (Part 1: Kosher in Richmond)

The Best Restaurant in Richmond is Edo’s Squid (A Meta Approach)

31
Jan
9

Methodology: These kinds of “best lists” all have their inherent flaws. All critics (except for Frank Bruni) are human beings with conscious and unconscious biases. On the other side, the crowdsource rankings are open to voter fraud.  I love Bubble Tea like the next guy but second best restaurant in Richmond, really?  Creating a list of lists attempts to address the weaknesses of a single approach.  Now, one could counter-argue that this “meta” approach also magnifies the weaknesses/groupthink.  I tend to agree because a couple of these restaurants on the list are shit.

Scoring went like this: If a restaurant was deemed a “top restaurant” by one of these recognized media sources, it was given a point. .5 bonus points (denoted by asterisk) were given for the following….

Only restaurants with 2 or more impressions are listed here. Rank Ordered then Alphabetized…

Caramelized OpiNIONS
RGL Top 50 RM Top25 2008 Reader’s Choice Richmond.com Staff RVANews Reader’s Choice Style Weekly Trip Advisor Top 50 UrbanSpoon Top 50 Yelp Top 50 TOTAL SCORE
Edo’s Squid X X X X X* X X X* X 10
Mama Zu’s X X X X X X* X X X 9.5
Millie’s Diner X X X* X X X* X X* 9.5
Ipanema Cafe X X X* X X X X 7.5
Can Can X X X X X X X 7
Comfort X X X X X X X 7
Croaker’s Spot X X X X X X 6
Mekong X X X X X X 6
The Hill Cafe X X X X X X 6
Acacia Midtown X X X X X 5
Akida X X X X X 5
Julep’s New Southern Cuisine X X X X X 5
Kuba Kuba X X X X X 5
Pescados X X X X X 5
The Black Sheep X X X X X 5
Cafe Rustica X* X X X 4.5
Mezzanine X X* X X 4.5
Buz & Ned’s Real Barbecue X X X X 4
Cafe Gutenberg 4
Coppola’s X X X X 4
Cous Cous X X X X 4
Perly’s X X X X 4
Pho So 1 X X X X 4
Sensi X X X X 4
The White Dog X X X X 4
8.5 X X X 3
Bottoms Up X X X 3
Chicken Fiesta X X X 3
Chiocca’s Downstairs Deli X X X 3
Da Lat X 3
Full Kee X X X 3
Grandpa Eddie’s X X X 3
La Grotta Ristorante X X X 3
Paradise Diner X X X 3
Patina Grill X X X X 3
Six Burner X X X 3
Tarrant’s Café    3
821 Bakery Cafe X X 2
Avalon Restaurant X X 2
Avenue 805 X X 2
Aziza’s on Main X X 2
Azzurro X X 2
Bacchus  X X 2
Bistro 27 X X 2
Bouchon X X 2
Cafe Caturra (Far West) 2
Cafe Ole X X 2
Carytown Burger and Fries X X 2
Davis & Main X X 2
Gelati Celesti Ice Cream Makers X X 2
Havana ’59 X X 2
Helen’s X X 2
Kitchen 64 X X 2
Lemaire Restaurant X X X 2
LuLu’s Restaurant X X 2
Mary Angela’s X X 2
Melito’s X X 2
Michelle’s at Hanover Tavern  X X 2
Nile Ethiopian Restaurant X X 2
North Pole  X X 2
Q Barbeque X X 2
Sidewalk Café X X 2
Sticks Kebab Shop X X 2
Sticky Rice X X 2
Strawberry St Cafe  X X 2
Tastebuds American Bistro X X 2
Thai Diner Too X X 2
Weezie’s Kitchen X X 2
Zeus Gallery Cafe X X 2
  • TripAdvisor, Yelp, UrbanSpoon as of Jan 2010.
  • Ever the proletariat, the editor of Carmelized Opinions asked me to include the choices mentioned in the running commentary of his post.  The comments were incorporated into the scoring.
  • Yes, I included my own list here (I did the work).   If any of these lists or media outlets offend you, just subtract one point.
  • This is what happens when one is snowed in.

2010 Model (or lipstick on pig)

1
Jan
0

Goodbye Courier, Hello Tahoma.

A couple of tweaks to usher in the new year:

(1) Changed the font to Tahoma 10. Nobody likes the durn typewriter font.
(2) Got rid of the red bar/short-cut links section (moved that information to the far right column)
(3) Moved the search bar to the right column as well.

These changes have added to the text density of the site allowing even more “news stories per pixel.”

Filed under: RGL Matters

2009 Year in Review…The Big Memes

29
Dec
0

Everyone else is doing it, so here it goes. As a compiler of news/real time historian/social media expert ;p , here were the big stories of 2009 (serious, silly, and in-between. So what’d I miss?):

January 2009

February 2009

March 2009

April 2009

May 2009

June 2009

July 2009

August 2009

September 2009

October 2009

November 2009

December 2009

That year, that decade, flew!

Filed under: Richmond

Richmond Restaurant Hot List 2009

28
Dec
0

This year, I started posting a Richmond Restaurant “Hot List” on the always popular restaurant page. The criteria used were somewhat vague/based on gut feeling: “These restaurants are getting lots of heat and buzz from media and bloggers (100% unscientific method).  Usually, this list consists of new restaurants or restaurants with new chefs or menus.” (Disclaimer: Just because a restaurant made this list doesn’t necessarily mean I liked them):

  • Acacia 2601 West Cary St (804) 354-6060 The “Beard Winner” is Back.  Tan, rested, and ready. A Richmond Magazine Best New Restaurant.
  • Alamo BBQ 2202 Jefferson Avenue (804) 592-3138 In a really short period of time (opened in May), these fellas have already been given Top 10 BBQ honors by Richmond Magazine (noted the beef briquette as a stand-out). All of Church Hill is buzzing about Alamo.
  • Anokha Unique Cuisine of India 4015 Lauderdale Drive (804) 360-8686 Indian has come a long way in Richmond. Finally, a fine dining concept with NO buffet.
  • Aurora 401 E. Grace St (804) 519-9982 Gotta love a downtown location with an in-house bakery and pastry chef.
  • Aziza’s on Main 2110 Main St (804) 344-1583 When the genius that invented “Billy Bread” (if you eat at Richmond restaurants, you’ve had it) teams up with his mom…watch out!
  • Balliceaux 203 N. Lombardy St (804) 355-3008 Quickly vaulted to the top spot on the first day. Ex-Millie’s chef, check. Iconic location, check. Chris Bopst booking the music, check.  See RVAJazz , Style Weekly , Richmond.comRichmond Magazine, and RVA Magazine for the inside dope.
  • The Belvidere at Broad 506 W. Broad St (804) 344-0644 Eclectic restaurant in the First Friday Arts District. Belgian beers, too! And gotta love a restaurant that blogs! (see Richmond Grid preview)
  • The Boathouse at Rocketts Landing 4708 E. Old Main St  (804) 622-2628 The two Boathouses have secured the “restaurant with best view” awards for years to come. The James River/City Skyline is a magnificent backdrop to sip a beer on their covered outdoor deck/bar. Seafood focus with wood pizza oven.  (See Style Weekly’s architectural review)
  • Bojangle’s 4901 Nine Mile Rd (804) 222-0883 Richmond has been without Bojangle’s for far too long. Imagine our surprise when they built a big modern version on Laburnum and 9 Mile!
  • Bouchon 1209 East Cary Street (804) 225-9116 French bistro takes over the space of Pomegranate (a former Top 25 RGL restaurant).  Richmond.com’s astute Varmit Pickeral (yes, nom de plume) recently wrote a ga-ga review.
  • Capriccio Pizza 9127 W Broad Street, Suite A  (804) 346-0184 Authentic Brooklyn slices.  What else can you ask for?
  • Chicken Fiesta 7568 W Broad St Merchants Walk Shopping Center (in the old Taqueria del Sol location) Will this location’s menu be expanded to be more like its parent Guapo’s?
  • Coast 5806 Grove Ave (804) 288-8466  From the makers of Enoteca Sogno comes this new Libbie-Grove seafood restaurant. Soft opening period. Can they break the “curse” of this location?
  • Croaker’s Spot South Hull St (Old Manchester Plaza Building) The Croaker empire expands south of the river!
  • Gibson’s Grill next to the National 7th and East Broad  The anticipation was killing us. Very important restaurant as out-of-town famous rockers performing at the National could develop city impression/perceptions through this establishment.
  • Islamorada Fish Company 11550 Lakeridge Parkway (inside the Bass Pro Shop) (804) 496-4700  Probably, the most expensive restaurant (the aquarium by itself!) ever built in metro Richmond.
  • La Sabrosita Bakery 7730 Midlothian Tpke Richmond, VA 23235-5172 (804) 562-8937 This place is like a Latin Willie Wonka bakery.  The respected RVAFoodie se gusta’s this place as well (Review 1 | Review 2).
  • Lemaire 101 W. Franklin Street (804) 649-4644 Opened July 8. Re-inventing itself with updated cuisine and interior. But more importantly, they want to be the new “it” bar for the glamorous cocktail set (think Manhattan chic bars like Rose/Jade at Gramercy Park Hotel). Read Whine Me, Dine Me’s preview | review. Reviews are starting to trickle in from MSM, and everyone seems pleased with this updated landmark. Breaking: Esquire Magazine just named it one of the Best New US Restaurants of the year.
  • Lucky Buddha 1421 E Cary St (804) 648-5100 Style Cover Girl Bartender Jennifer Whitehead just increased their bar sales by 1000%
  • Magnolias Wine Bar & Bistro 7021 Three Chopt Road (804) 673-0006 Wine bar invasion hitting Westham set (note: this restaurant has since closed. Very short life span)
  • Mediterraneo Ristorante 3730 Winterfield Rd Midlothian, VA 23113 Through the sheer will of VCUSpoon’s evangelism, this new Founder’s Bridge Italian restaurant rockets to the list!
  • Mezzanine 3433 W Cary St (804) 353-2186 Winner of Style Weekly’s Restaurant of the Year.  Also, a Richmond Magazine Best New Restaurant (although a few reviews have come out recently questioning this conventional wisdom). High-concept Carytown restaurant-bar specializing in local ingredients.
  • Nate’s Taco Truck anywhere Richmond’s version of the Goki truck.  Fanboys and fangirls utilize Twitter and follow Nate like a Taco Grateful Dead. Got rave reviews in recent Style Taco guide.
  • Q Barbeque 2077 Walmart Way Midlothian, VA 23113 (804) 897-9007 If they stay consistent, they could challenge for Richmond BBQ heavyweight championship.  Got much love in the recent Top 10 BBQ Richmond Magazine issue (July 2009) and #2 in Best of issue (August 2009).  People I trust on Twitter (like @bpfox) also think this is the best BBQ joint in all the 5 counties.
  • The Republic 2053 W. Broad St (804) 592-4444 Pretty neat that they’re encouraging employees to twitter.
  • Sensi 2222 E Cary St # 101 (804) 648-3463 Strong showing at Broad Appetit (their lobster risotto entree and zabaglione dessert were a huge hit). New website, and they want to remind folks that they ain’t going nowhere.
  • Shula’s Steak House at The New Hilton Richmond Hotel & Spa 191 Towne Center West Boulevard (804) 218-3860 Shula’s enters Richmond’s crowded high-end steakhouse fray inside the highly anticipated (probable) 4 Star Short Pump Hilton.
  • Stronghill Dining Company 1200 N Boulevard (804) 359-0202 Another “anticipation” restaurant. Needed addition to Scott’s Addition! A Richmond Magazine Best New Restaurant. Now open for lunch.
  • Water Grill 3411 W Cary St (804) 353-3411 Opened July 31. Everything Michelle Williams touches turns to gold.  She’ll be the latest to make it a go in the crowded Carytown restaurant scene.  Will the menu be another Hard Shell or more (or less)??
  • Wild Ginger 734 Winterfield Rd Midlothian, VA (804) 378-4988 Chris Tsui has the magic touch. On any given night, his River Road Osaka has the highest concentration of Richmond power players. You could say the same thing about his latest Founder’s Bridge Asian fusion creation.

In regards to “hottest of all,” the Final Four has to be AcaciaBalliceaux, Lemaire , and Mezzanine.